Integrity of a VIN – The Key to Identifying a Vehicle & Preserving Your Investment
If the VIN or serial number on your vehicle, or the vehicle which you are buying or selling, has been removed and reinstalled on the car or has been tampered with or altered in any way you could face some serious consequences. These consequences could include criminal prosecution, fines and jail time. On the civil side of the law the monetary damages could be staggering.
Do you know what you are looking for when you look at VIN?
Many individuals, car dealers and collector car auctions have offered vehicles for sale that have VINs that have been tampered with in some fashion. Surprisingly, it is really not that uncommon! Knowledge, on your part, is the key to avoiding such a situation.
For the purpose of this article I am going to refer to all vehicle indemnification numbers as VINs. I recognize that the older vehicles referred to these numbers as serial numbers and some vehicles are registered by engine numbers, body numbers or chassis numbers but for the purpose of this article I will collectively refer to all of these numbers as VINs.
When the manufacturer assigns a VIN to a car or truck it is affixed in a specific fashion and by law (both state and federal) cannot be removed, altered, tampered with or obliterated except for very specific times when it is necessary for the repair of the vehicle.
When you are looking to buy a classic car, vintage or antique car or truck check the VIN tag to ensure that it is present and matches the make and model year of the vehicle you are looking to purchase. Just this past week I ran across two GMC pickup trucks offered for sale with Chevrolet VIN tags! In other words if you are looking at a GMC and the VIN says Chevrolet, that is a major clue something is amiss.
Also this past month I found a Chevrolet pickup truck for sale which purports to be a 1966 with a 1963 VIN tag! There are many sources to decode VIN numbers easily availible through your favorite search engine. These sources are your friend.
Once you have confirmed that the VIN is of the proper type for the year and model that is only the first step. Next look at the patina on the tag, is it consistent with the condition and age of the vehicle that you are looking at? Is the VIN tag affixed to the vehicle with the proper rivet, screws, spot welds, etc.?
I don’t recall knowing of any instances were metal VIN tags were glued on from the factory. There should be something visibly affixing the tag to the vehicle.
If you spot a vehicle with a VIN tag affixed in a non-authentic or questionable manner, stop immediately and contact Bryan W. Shook and Vintage Car Law® for assistance. Likewise, if the font, aspect ratio or the characters themselves do not look proper contact Bryan Shook for a quick opinion.
If you bought a vehicle that has a VIN that has been tampered with or removed at one point you should contact Bryan W. Shook for an opinion and to assess your options. The last thing you want to do is be stuck with a hot potato or worse yet the subject of a criminal investigation for possession (or offering for sale) of a vehicle with a tampered/altered VIN. Even if the seller did not know of the VIN issue this may not be an excuse or defense. Contact Bryan W. Shook for more information.
For popular American cars and trucks through 1972 here is a listing of how the VIN should be affixed. This list is not meant to be comprehensive or complete just illustrative and helpful.
Chevrolet (not including trucks)
1953 – 1959 Corvette – Pan Head Phillips Screws
Early-1960 Corvette – Pan Head Phillips Screws
Late-1960 – 1964 Corvette – Spot Welds
1965 (Very EARLY) Corvette – Pop Rivets
1965 Corvette -1972 Corvette – Rosette Rivets
1951-1964 Chevrolet (not Corvette) – Spot Welded (never RIVETS OR SCREWS)
1965 (Very EARLY) Chevrolet – Pop Rivets
1965 – 1972 Chevrolet – Rosette Rivets
Ford (not including trucks)
Model A through 1967 Ford – Stamped directly into Frame or Body of Vehicle (starting in 1940s there is a body plate affixed to the body or door of the vehicle that bears the VIN but this number must always be checked against the frame stamping/body stamping). Look for a star at the beginning and end of the stamped number.
1968 Ford (earliest production 1968 model year Fords may not have had publicly viewable VINs in the windshield) – (screws – very rare), small diameter head pop rivets or rosette rivets depending upon the assembly plant
1969 Ford – Standard pop rivets or rosette rivets depending upon the assembly plant and time of production
1970-ON – Rosette Rivets (note for 1968-1970 VINs the rivets are not usually visible)
Chrysler, Dodge Plymouth (MOPAR) (not including trucks)
1931 – 1940s – Flat Head rivet
1950s – 1965 – Spot Welded
1966-1972 – Rosette Rivets
Trucks
Chevrolet/GMC Trucks (NOT El Camino)
1940 – early 1950s – Clutch head screws
Early 1950s – 1953 – Expanding Rivets (very large center hole)
1954-1964 – Spot Welds
1965 (Very EARLY) – Standard Pop Rivets
1965 (late) – ON – Rosette Rivets (NEVER standard rivets)
Ford, Mercury Trucks (NOT Ranchero)
Late 1940s – ON – Warranty Plate riveted (usually with expanding rivets (very large center hole)) to Body – Serial Number/VIN stamped into frame rail as found on other Ford products.
Dodge, Plymouth, Fargo Trucks
1940s – 1950s – Straight head screws
1960s – ON – Rivets (Must confirm Frame VIN matches)
If you think there is something fishy with your vehicle’s serial or VIN number contact Bryan W. Shook for an opinion. Also, if you come across a vehicle with a known tampered VIN please let us know so that we can be aware of it for the future and to prevent future acts of misrepresentation and fraud.
As I wrote in prior article concerning fake and fraudulently made certificates of title; these types of problems concerning VINS and titles are very concerning because you may have purchased a car with a nefarious title history. Worse yet, you may not even “own” the car you think you purchased. I have even been involved in cases where multiple cars/trucks share the same VIN in different states/countries!!!
How can you help to protect yourself and have confidence in what you are already own or are buying? Order a Motor Study®! Vintage Car Law® is proud to offer this one of a kind forensic vehicle title abstract and provenance confirmation service. For more than a decade Bryan W. Shook, Esquire and Vintage Car Law® have established themselves as the leader in vehicle research. This experience is now available to the public in the form of Motor Study®. Call now – 717-884-9010.
Vehicle Identification Numbers
Vehicle Identification Numbers
(What are they; where are they found and why are they important?)
What is a Vehicle Identification Number?
A Vehicle Identification Number also commonly known by its acronym “VIN” is the unique identifying serial number of a motor vehicle. Manufacturers of vehicle have assigned unique identifying numbers to their vehicles since the dawn of the automobiles however early forms of vehicle identification numbers were usually very short (three of four numbers) and usually found stamped in the engine block or on a small brass plate on the frame of body of the vehicle. The process of identifying vehicles by their engine numbers started early on but a problem quickly arose when an engine had to be replaced. This problem however was not rectified until approximately 1954. Starting in approximately 1955 US auto manufacturers began using unique Vehicle Identification Numbers to uniquely identify all US built automobiles. The compelling force behind this change in practice was a desire to work with law enforcement and state’s DMVs to reduce the amount and opportunity for VIN fraud and stolen vehicle trafficking. Prior to 1954, vehicles were identified by body number, chassis number, serial number or engine number. One can imagine how confusing this would have been and how great the potential for fraud would have been.
A VIN is the DNA of a vehicle, that is to say it is the unique identifier of every vehicle. The VIN is the number by which s vehicle is registered and titled. Decoding a VIN can tell you many things including when the vehicle was built, the model of the vehicle, the assembly plant and possibly even the original engine displacement. Since a VIN plays such an important role in the identity of a vehicle, much fraud has arisen over the years surrounding VINs.
Where are VINs located and how can I tell if the VIN on my car is the correct VIN?
Since the beginnings of automotive production the engines, bodies and usually the frames of vehicles have been assigned identification numbers usually in a serialized fashion. Beginning with the 1970 model year, nearly all vehicles produced for sale in the United States have had the VIN placed in at least three distinct locations.
- Public VIN (since January 1, 1968 visible through the windshield)
In the United States, the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act of 1966 (effective January 1, 1968) mandated certain safety requirements on vehicles to be sold in the USA such as side marker lights, safety belts and Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN) visible on the dash through the windshield. This is VIN location has come to be known as the “public VIN” and is probably the VIN that you are most familiar with.
- Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards Certification Sticker (since August 31, 1969 found in the door jamb or on the door)
Starting with all vehicles manufactured after August 31, 1969, Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (“FMVSS”) certification sticker was required to be affixed to the vehicle which also included the VIN of the vehicle. Effective January 1, 1972, the sticker also had to include gross vehicle weight (“GVWR”) information on the certification label. On Chevrolet models from the 1970s, this sticker is blue and is found on the driver’s door.
- Hidden or Confidential VIN
VINs have been stamped into frames of vehicles for many years, however the process became more uniform starting approximately during the 1968 model year. The VIN was stamped into various metal objects on the vehicle, including the frame, the body, the engine, transmission and other places. The VIN on the frame or the body became known as the Hidden VIN, the Confidential VIN or the Federal VIN. This number is usually not a full, complete VIN but a derivative thereof. The sequential production number of the hidden VIN should match the sequential production number (the last five or six digits) of the Public VIN and if the vehicle was produced after August 31, 1969, the FMVSS certification sticker. The VIN on the engine and transmission would have also been a derivative of the VIN and it too should match the Public VIN provided that the engine and/or transmission is original.
Why are VINs so important?
A vehicle’s identification number is very important as it is the only unique identifier a vehicle possesses and accordingly its integrity and validity must be established and preserved. This is especially true with collectible vehicles given their inherent and actual values. When you look a vehicle for potential purchase, you must view the VIN in as many of the locations as you reasonable are able to view it. Start with the public VIN and see if it is consistent with other examples of the year, make and model; ensure that it has not been tampered with or affixed in such a way as to make it not appear as original. If the public VIN is missing, loose or appears tampered with in any way, contact a marque specialist and attempt to locate the hidden or confidential VIN for the vehicle to ensure the public VIN is the proper VIN.
What if the Confidential VIN and the Public VIN do not match?
If the confidential VIN and the public VIN do not match, you have a major problem which needs to be addressed professionally and legally. In short, if the public and confidential VINs contradict one another, you have an unsalable vehicle with a title defect; specifically you have a vehicle which purports to have two identities. Common reasons for the two not to match are that the vehicle itself is stolen or was stolen or salvaged in the past and another VIN (a good clean VIN) was affixed in the public location to make the vehicle appear as though it was “clean” when in reality it was not. Another reason for the two VINs not to match is that the vehicle was rebuilt from several other vehicles. If a vehicle has been rebuilt and bears two VINs that can be a problem as this is the usual excuse that is given when a vehicle has been “re-tagged” to disguise a title problem or a former theft; much scrutiny must be employed in this instance. When the Confidential VIN and the Public VIN do not match it may also be an instance of a “rebody”. A “rebody” is a vehicle which has had the body replaced and the VIN of the original vehicle affixed to the “donor” body. The legal issues surrounding rebodied vehicles are explored in another article.
Many laws have been enacted to protect the integrity of the VIN. Pursuant to 18 U.S.C. § 511, the alteration of a VIN, could be a federal criminal offense. Further, pursuant to 18 U.S.C. § 2321 whoever buys, receives, possesses, or obtains control of, with intent to sell or otherwise dispose of, a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part, knowing that an identification number for such motor vehicle or part has been removed, obliterated, tampered with, or altered, could be fined or imprisoned for up to ten years. Similarly, Pennsylvania’s statutes also address this matter. Specifically, 18 P.S. § 1.4(a) states that a person who alters, counterfeits, defaces, destroys, disguises, falsifies, forges, obliterates or removes a vehicle identification number with the intent to conceal or misrepresent the identity or prevent the identification of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part commits a felony of the third degree and, upon conviction, shall be sentenced to imprisonment for not more than seven years or a fine of not more than $50,000. Further, and most concerning is that pursuant to 18 P.S. § 1.4(b) any person who purchases, receives, disposes, sells, transfers or possesses a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part with knowledge that the vehicle identification number of the motor vehicle or motor vehicle part has been altered, counterfeited, defaced, destroyed, disguised, falsified, forged, obliterated or removed with the intent to conceal or misrepresent the identity or prevent the identification of a motor vehicle or motor vehicle part commits a felony of the third degree and, upon conviction, shall be sentenced to imprisonment for not more than seven years or a fine of not more than $50,000, or both.
In laymen’s terms the VIN of a vehicle must be preserved and protected and if you are in possession of a vehicle with a VIN or VIN tag or VIN plate which has been altered, removed and replaced or otherwise tampered with you could face serious civil and criminal offenses. The best advice is to contact an attorney at once who can analyze your situation and assist you with identifying your legal options.
Attorney Bryan W. Shook is not only a devoted automotive enthusiast, but is also an experience litigator who devotes a large portion of his law practice to helping other collectors and hobbyists understand today’s market and protect their automotive investments. Attorney Bryan W. Shook is a seasoned automotive collector and restorer and as such brings real world experience and firsthand knowledge to the table for his clients throughout the world. Although Bryan Shook is headquartered in central Pennsylvania (close proximity to Carlisle and Hershey), Attorney Bryan Shook is available anywhere for consultation, advice, and information, most times, on as short as a day’s notice. If you’d like more information about this topic or would like to speak with Attorney Bryan W. Shook please email him at BShook@shooklegal or by phone at 717-884-9010. More information can be found at Http://www.vintagecarlaw.com.
